If you’re a person who likes to get off the beaten path of the tourist tracks when visiting the South of France, then this article by local Nice resident, Eric Schwartz is for you. The Côte d’Azur still offers visitors some tranquil and low-key vibe places to visit, each offering unique charms, activities and remarkable vistas. All are within easy reach, using public transport, from Nice. And each can be a jumping-off place to start hikes, bike rides or camping.
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Pro Tip: Being well-prepared and anticipating environmental factors helps ensure a successful visit. Many of these coastal hikes have a fair amount of altitude gain, and summertime temperatures in the South of France can reach upwards of 100° F with high levels of humidity, so keeping oneself hydrated, particularly on hikes, is critical. With this in mind, we always made sure to have plenty of water and snacks on-hand for all our treks. We visited many of these places in mid to late October and the weather was still pleasant.
The first three villages we visited are closer to the coast and offer exceptional views of the Mediterranean.
Roquebrune-Cap-Martin
What I liked: The area around Roquebrune Cap Martin offers a slow-paced, relaxed, beachy vibe, while having a sense of sophistication and refinement. Yes, you regularly see all sorts of very pricey luxury cars parading up and down the beachfront street, but you also see some very well-healed individuals letting loose a bit and putting their toes in the sand. The sights are all nearby and very walkable and safe.
How to get there: We took the TER regional train from Nice-Ville, the main train station, to Carnolès – a short 35-minute ride. We spent three days and two nights in the area, exploring the towns and surroundings. We disembarked at the station east of the main station at Roquebrune-Cap-Martin, called Carnolès. This is a nice, quiet bedroom town whose residents commute to Monaco daily, using it as a less-expensive bedroom community. It’s exceptionally clean and offers a great sea path to walk along, a good variety of restaurants and slightly more economical lodging.
Where to stay: We booked a room at Hôtel Reine d’Azur, a small, family-run boutique hotel with a view of the sea from our room on the second floor with a large terrace. The hotel offers extensive selections for breakfast but note that there is no elevator at this property. There is also an Ibis hotel nearby, as well as two other hotels with sea views: the Hôtel Victoria and Hôtel Alexandra.
Find out more about the Hôtel Reine d’Azur here >>
Find out more about the Hôtel Victoria here >>
Find out more about the Hôtel Alexandra here >>
Where to eat: Every meal we had while staying in the area was just fantastic, with each restaurant offering a diverse menu, including a variety of seafood, meats and pastas. I would recommend making reservations in advance for all these places:
- Madame BLEUE, 25 Promenade du Cap-Martin, 06190 Roquebrune-Cap-Marti (Fusion). From the moment you walk in, you’ll immediately sense next-level hospitality plus expansive ocean views.
- Le Fellini, 7 Promenade du Cap-Martin, 06190 Roquebrune-Cap-Martin (Italian). The dishes are very well done and served piping hot. The wait staff seem a little too thinly stretched, but if you have time for a two-hour meal, this is a great spot.
- La Grotte & l’Olivier, 2 Pl. des 2 Frères, 06190 Roquebrune-Cap-Martin (Mediterranean). This place, located in old Roquebrune, served up incredible cuisine and looked out on a plaza in the center of the village.
What to do: The highlight of this trip was our walk through the medieval village of old Roquebrune. The stroll could be challenging even for those in good shape, as you will experience winding cobblestone lanes, which undulate up and down. While you’re negotiating those, your gaze will be drawn to the stone buildings and archways along the way. Throughout the village you will come across stairs and uneven surfaces everywhere, but still, it’s a very pleasant place as it just exudes the charm of a small medieval French village.
To get to the hilltop village, you can take either the 18 or 21 bus. All buses in this region accept most types of contactless credit or debits card payments for fares. Just tap your card on screen, which also is the bus pass or ticket reader. One of the main purposes of our trip here was to explore the Château Médieval de Roquebrune, which was built in the 10th century and more recently, lovingly restored, as it is one of the few examples of Carolingian architecture that was originally constructed as a dungeon. Now you can observe paragliders drifting slowly overhead, catching the up-currents coming in from the sea to lift them even higher. Not only do you get a good history lesson through the audio guide, but if you climb to the top, you get commanding views of the Bay of Roquebrune.
While in the area, it only makes sense to go to the Cimetière de Roquebrune-Cap-Martin to see the grave of artist Charles-Édouard Jeanneret, or as he is commonly known, Le Corbusier. The artist and his wife are buried there. It’s about a 30-minute walk from the center of the old village and his gravesite also offers sweeping views of the coastline. The cemetery itself is remarkably interesting, with war memorials and elaborate headstones and crypts.
For travelers with a deep appreciation of architecture who enjoy everything from medieval to the modernism movement, a visit to Eillen Gray’s house, while in Roquebrune, is must-see. Gray, who was an Irish architect and furniture designer, built one of the first seaside villas in the modernist style, which is commonly known as Villa E-1027. The code is composed from her and her lover, Jean Badovici names – ‘E’ standing for Eileen, ’10’ Jean, ‘2’ Badovici, ‘7’ Gray. The house was designed and built by the couple starting in 1926 and completed in 1929. The home is available for guided tours and has a flat roof, floor to ceiling windows and an L-shaped layout. It has innovative designs for air flow, light deflection and spiral stairways. The inside of the house is dotted with replica examples of Gray‘s furniture.
After completing their shared project, Eileen Gray and Jean Badovici split in 1932, with Badovici keeping E-1027. Gray went on to design a house for herself in the hills above Menton. Badovici was a close friend of Le Corbusier and invited him and his wife to visit him frequently at the property. Corbusier eventually painted oversized colorful murals on the huge, (then blank), white walls inside the villa. While staying with Badovici, Corbusier fell in love with the area and later purchased a small piece of land nearby where he built a small set of cabins in 1951 called ‘Cabanon de Vacances’, along with a very tiny restaurant called l’Étoile de Mer. The cabins only had sleeping accommodations and nowhere to cook, so the restaurant served as a place for him and his guests to have all their meals.
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Corbusier spent many enjoyable years vacationing and working there, and swimming in the bay. Many of the works from his career as an artist can be attributed to his time in Roquebrune. His overall artistic output was prolific, with over 450 paintings, 350 prints, and thousands of works on paper produced during his career. He died from a heart attack during his daily swim in 1965. Both of these sites can be seen on the same visit.
If you’re visiting this site during the summertime there is an excellent beach club down from the train station called Le Cabanon du Buse. You have to take a winding walkway and many sets of steep stairs, but the food, service and views are well worth the effort.
Pro Tip: These sites are managed by Centre de Monuments Nationaux, can have long lead-times on getting appointments to visit, and can also be closed during certain times of the year, so book ahead and arrive at least 15 minutes in advance of your scheduled tour. You have to check into your tour at “Hangar Cap Moderne” near the train station and then walk approximately 10 minutes to the house by your allotted tour time. Tours are given in French and English and the English tours book up fast. See: https://capmoderne.monuments-nationaux.fr/.
Sainte-Agnès
What I liked: Sainte-Agnès, whose history is defined by a strong strategic military importance, is now a jewel perched above the craggy cliffs of the Mediterranean. It is the highest coastal village in Europe and is typically a few degrees cooler than those situated right next to the sea – a definite plus in the summer heat. Originally it served as a defensive Roman outpost, which was later taken over by Counts of Ventimiglia in the 10th-12th centuries. Eventually control was passed on to the Savoy and Grimaldi families before becoming a part of France in 1860. Today the medieval village is known for its stunning sea views and rich history. Avid hikers also use this village as a starting point or base camp for trails radiating out from the village.
How to get there: We took the TER regional train from Nice Ville to Menton’s main station, and from there, walked across the street to the bus stop in front of the Monument aux Morts aux Enfants de Menton where we caught the 10 bus, which only runs about five times a day, so get an early start. The last return bus of the day leaves Sainte-Agnès at 7:41 p.m. If you miss that one, you’ll either have to stay the night or call an Uber or cab.
Where to stay: Hotel Saint-Yves is a great little family-run establishment perched on stilts hanging off the side of a mountain overlooking a gorgeous valley and the seaside. It has an expansive, sunny patio off the restaurant, which offers a spectacular view of the valley and coastline. They serve breakfast, lunch and dinner as well as limited late-night bites. The dishes are exquisitely prepared. For hikers or those wishing to have peace and quiet, it is an auberge style establishment, meaning they offer humble overnight accommodations.
You can find out more about the Hotel Saint-Yves here >>
Restaurant Le Righi offers lunch with a breathtaking view of the sea, and is open evenings in July and August. The restaurant is closed during off-peak seasons.
What to do: A visit to Fort de la Ligne Maginot offers a fascinating glimpse into the defense of France prior to World War II. It was built from 1932-36, deep into the side of the solid rock mountain. The fort could accommodate up to 350 troops and be self-sufficient for up to three months without outside supplies. You must take a guided tour (predominantly given in French), and hours vary from what is posted online but are normally on a sign outside of the entrance door. The fort was decommissioned in 1990 towards the end of the Cold War.
The walks or hikes that start in Sainte-Agnès vary from moderate strolls to full-on, formidable hikes, including some with a lot of altitude gain. One of these is the hike to Pointe de Siricocca, where other old military installations can be seen. If you’re not up for that, then you could choose a more moderate walk by taking the loop to the Borrigo Waterfall. There are too many hikes to list, but you can even hike to nearby villages like Gorbio.
If your knees are not up to a big hike, then you can climb just to the top of the village to walk amongst the Medieval gardens and ruins from a 10th century château. You can get a glimpse of what life must have been like for the villagers who grew their own food and herbs, kept livestock and tended their properties that were all contained within the fortified walls. The manicured terraced gardens, now maintained by volunteers, feature a delightful array of flowers and herbs. Donations are accepted at the entrance to help defray the cost of maintaining the area.
There are also two churches to peek at inside the village, and although simple, both are serene and picturesque.
Pro Tip: While you are on the way to, or heading back to your lodging, be sure to catch a glimpse of the Trophy of Augustus (Trophée d’Auguste), located in La Turbie – a village just uphill from Monaco and close to the coast. It is a monumental victory arch built by Cesar Augustus in 6 BC, celebrating the overtaking of 45 Alpine tribes and securing a trade route to Rome. It is open year-round for visitors, Tuesday-Sunday, but is closed for public holidays throughout the year. Guided tours can be booked but are only given twice a day in French. When returning to Nice from Sainte-Agnes, we stopped by train at the Monaco-Monte-Carlo station. We then boarded bus no. 11 and were dropped off directly in front of the monument 30 minutes later.
Haut-de-Cagnes
What I liked: This rocky outcropping above Cagnes-sur-Mer rises 91 meters above sea level, which provided an excellent defensive vantage point at the time of its building. It also had several sources of water nearby, with the Cagne and Var rivers traversing the grounds nearby. Village life centered around Grimaldi castle dating from the 1300s, which was later “modernized” into a comfortable palace around 1620. And yes, Rainier Grimaldi, the builder of the castle in Haut-de-Cagnes, is the same person as the first sovereign ruler of the Grimaldi family in Monaco. Stretching out from the base of the castle toward the Alps is an expansive plaza which holds Pétanque courts as well as a bevy of restaurants and areas to picnic and relax. There are quaint churches and chapels with gardens to visit. Wandering around the cobbled streets magically transports you to a different time.
Although dating from the 1300’s, today the village stands out for its art galleries and studios and has been a magnet for artists since the early 20th century after Pierre-Auguste Renoir settled nearby and called this little slice of heaven home. La Maison des Artistes shows the works of the Peintres de Cagnes and is a communal art space worth exploring.
How to get there: We went on the TER regional train from Nice Ville to the main train station in Cagnes-sur-Mer, which was a 15-minute jaunt, then we took about a five-minute walk to get to the main bus station. There, we hopped on a free shuttle, #44, that departs every 15 minutes bound for the hilltop village.
Where to stay: Le Grimaldi by Le Village is the only hotel in Haut-de-Cagnes and allows easy access to the castle and surrounding areas on foot. It offers breakfast at an additional charge.
You can find out more about Le Grimaldi here >>
Where to eat: The restaurants that look out over Place du Château all seem to host a good lunch crowd. We could most easily get into Lylium, and they offered a nice variety of plates, including salads, pizzas and burgers, as well as small dishes like tapas, desserts and a variety of beverages.
What to do: Besides visiting the Château-Musée Grimaldi and the Artist’s house, be sure to take time to wander around and soak up the scenery, including Le Pontis Long, which is a 65-foot-long covered passageway built under the homes of the village.
After lunch we walked 25 minutes to the Renoir Museum. It is located on the former Les Collettes olive farm that the renowned impressionist master, Pierre-Auguste Renoir, purchased in 1907, saving the site from developers’ bulldozers. The farmhouse served as his home and studio during the last 12 years of his life. He passed away there in 1919 at the age of 78. Visitors can tour the house and marvel at Renoir’s studio, kitchen, bedroom, and bathroom, which all remain remarkably faithful to when he lived there. The space is now filled with his original works of art, including paintings, sculptures and studies for larger works. Admission includes access to the tranquil olive and citrus groves, gardens and outdoor studio surrounding the home.
Pro Tip: When booking travel on the regional train (TER) from in either direction from Nice, try to travel during off-peak hours. For example, during early morning, (7a.m.–10a.m.) workers who are commuting to Monaco and others who are coming to Nice crowd the trains, making finding a seat and a place for your luggage challenging. When, I’m able, I try to travel after 11 a.m. and before 3 p.m. to avoid this issue.
Peille
What I liked: On one of our more adventurous undertakings we visited the remote 13th century medieval village of Peille. It overlooks the river Peillon and the Côte d’Azur coastline. The village has a commanding view from 630 meters above sea level, and is nestled into Mount Baudon, with outcroppings of white stone buildings jutting out of the hillside. It is noteworthy for its small streets, some of which are not even passable by car, cobbled lanes and small squares dotted throughout the old center. It was a consular town of the Lascaris dynasty and hosted both lower and upper courts. The remains of the Lascaris palace, standing since the 17th century, are worth seeing.
The surrounding forests and parkland offer abundant hikes, mountain biking trails, and numerous Neolithic fortified settlements.
How to get there: The best way to get to Peille is by taking the TER train from Nice Ville to Monaco, where you would then take bus #604 to Peille. It takes approximately an hour and a half to get to there from Nice. Another option would be to take tram line 2 to the airport bus station at terminal 1 and then board bus #80 to Bautugan. There you would change to the #604, which finally takes you to the village. The final way would be to take tram line 2 to Port Lympia, then board bus #600 at Arson/Fodéré to Place d’Armes. There, you take bus #604 to Peille.
Where to stay: We only did a day-trip to Peille so I cannot recommend any lodging. From what I’ve seen there is Le Vela nearby, which is a guest house, but I’m not sure if it operates year-round.
Where to eat: We had a fantastic and inexpensive lunch at Le p’tit gourmet, a small restaurant, which overlooks an inviting tiled square. They are only open for lunch. There is another restaurant in town called Creperie La Voute, which stays open for an early dinner most nights. How can you go wrong with crepes?
What to do: Some of the top sites in Peille include the Sainte Marie Church, built from the 11th to the 12th centuries and featuring remarkable 16th century frescoes. The Saint-Sébastien church was incorporated into the town hall but still includes a small, accessible chapel.
Pro Tip: Before exploring one of these villages and choosing a hike, talk to one of the local tourism office’s visitor center guides, as they will be able to help you select the right hike for your physical ability and schedule.
Sites that are worth exploring include a large stone fountain in the center of town where you can see remnants of its ancient citadel and surrounding grounds. For the Palais Lascaris, which is now a library, you can request a visit ahead of your trip. If it’s hiking that you’re after, Peille is the starting or pass-through point for Cime de Baudon, Mont Gros, Col de la Madone, and the historic Via Alpina Red Trail that goes towards Monaco. During certain times of the year you can also go mountain biking or rent horses for horseback riding.
If you’ve ever dreamt of trading crowded promenades and beaches for secret hillside cobbled lanes, you’ll find your heart—and your taste buds—well rewarded among Nice’s elevated neighbors. Each of these spots has its own delightful charms. Whether it’s savoring sun-drenched rosé under centuries-old olive trees, wandering by perfumed gardens, or discovering local art that rivals the views, you’ll soon realize that part of the real Riviera magic happens above the coastline. So flee from the selfie-stick crowds, lace up your walking shoes and let curiosity be your guide. In these high coastal havens, adventure isn’t just off the beaten path—it’s the path itself, winding through the history, stories, scents and sights you’ll never find in a brochure.
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You can read local Nice expert Eric Schwartz’s other posts on the Nice and surrounding area here >>
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